A Genealogy of Red Broth and White Starch: Profiles of Gunsan's Spicy Seafood Noodle Soup and Starch-Sauce Noodles

To read the history of Gunsan's Chinese cuisine through its spaces first, head to Dongnyeong-gil in Jangmi-dong. Binhaewon at 57 Dongnyeong-gil was founded in the early 1950s and is now run by the 2nd generation of an ethnic Chinese family. Its building is a National Registered Heritage. Inside, an ornate courtyard rising through the 1st and 2nd floors and wooden railings create a scene straight out of a film. It opens 10:00–21:00 (closed on Mondays), and you can take your time over old-style starch-sauce noodles and Gunsan three-delicacy spicy seafood noodle soup.

Just a few steps away, at 42 Dongnyeong-gil, is another long-running restaurant, Hongyeongjang. Its small 50-seat hall opens 11:00–15:00 on weekdays (until 18:00 on weekends) with no closing days. Regulars keep coming back for its mild starch-sauce noodles, with seafood and vegetables stir-fried in a thick starch sauce instead of black bean paste, and its old-style black bean noodles.

The two leading players who spread Gunsan's spicy seafood noodle soup craze nationwide have one thing in common: they close early after the lunch service. Bokseongnu at 382 Wolmyeong-ro is open only 10:00–16:00 (closed on Sundays and public holidays). In a space of about 35 seats, it serves seafood spicy noodle soup and starch-sauce noodles heaped with cockles, squid and pork so high you cannot see the noodles.

Jirinseong at 87 Miwon-ro pioneered the extreme end of spiciness. It opens 10:00–15:00 on weekdays and 09:30–16:00 on weekends, and closes on Tuesdays. Its chili black bean noodles and chili spicy seafood noodle soup pile generous Cheongyang chili over large chunks of pork and seafood. After the sweetness of the first bite, an intense heat rushes in and leaves an addictive aftertaste.

Travelers who arrive late in the afternoon or in the evening can find good answers on Spicy Noodle Soup Street near the inner harbor and on Daehak-ro. Ssangyong Banjeom at 121 Naehang 2-gil keeps its lights on 11:30–21:00 all year round. True to its seaside location, its signature dishes are clam spicy noodle soup that fills the bowl and abalone spicy noodle soup topped with a whole abalone.

For a refreshing broth that doubles as a hangover cure, Wangsan Banjeom at 209 Daehak-ro is a perfect fit. Open 10:00–18:00 (closed on Tuesdays), it serves bean sprout spicy noodle soup boiled with plenty of crisp bean sprouts, and hot spicy noodle soup. They show a clean flavor quite different from heavy meat broths.

The six restaurants all have different hours and regular closing days, so checking the day of the week is essential when you plan your route. On Sunday Bokseongnu rests, on Monday Binhaewon closes, and on Tuesday Jirinseong and Wangsan Banjeom close.

If you arrive in Gunsan after 16:00, Bokseongnu, Jirinseong and Hongyeongjang (on weekdays) have already closed. The surest way to avoid a wasted trip is to head to Binhaewon or Ssangyong Banjeom, which stay open until 21:00.