Two Speeds for Crossing West Sea Time: Driving the Gogunsan Islands by Bridge and Climbing Daejangbong Peak on Foot

The Gogunsan Islands could once be reached only by buying a ticket at the Gunsan Coastal Passenger Terminal and timing the ferry. Now a road runs without a break from Sinsido Island, midway along the Saemangeum Seawall, to Daejangdo Island. The highlight of that road is Gogunsan Bridge, which crosses the sea between Sinsido Island and Munyeodo Island.

Opened in July 2016, the bridge is the world's longest suspension bridge with 1 pylon. One D-shaped pylon, 105 m tall, rises from the middle of the sea and holds up the 400 m deck with cables. Cross the bridge into Munyeodo Island, and the traveler slows down: mood-filled beach cafes on the site of former salt fields, Munyeobong Peak, and the sea path to Jwittongseom Islet that appears when the tide parts.

Cross Seonyu Bridge from Munyeodo Island, and Seonyudo Island, the central island of the Gogunsan Islands, opens up. True to its name, 'the island where immortals played', Seonyudo Island holds Seonyudo Beach (Myeongsasimni Beach), a wide stretch of fine sand, and at its end Mangjubong Peak, two rocky peaks rising high.

After cycling or strolling along the beach, where the water is shallow and the waves are calm, cross the pedestrian-only Seonyu Bridge or Jangja Grand Bridge, and the route leads naturally to the next island, Jangjado Island. Jangjado Island was once one of the richest ports among the Gogunsan Islands fishing grounds. Its deck path along the coast is good for walking, and the West Sea sunset dropping beyond the horizon is a fine sight.

Cross the short Jangjagyo Bridge from Jangjado Island and you reach Daejangdo Island, the end of the Gogunsan Connecting Road. It is a small island of 0.34 km², but it holds Daejangbong Observatory, 142 m above sea level. From there you get the most three-dimensional view of the whole Gogunsan Islands.

Park at the Jangjado Island public parking lot, cross Daejang Bridge and start climbing; the summit is about 20–30 minutes away (about 1 hour round trip). Steep wooden stairs run along the rocky ridge, so sneakers with non-slip soles are a must. Pass Grandma Rock halfway up the stairs and stand on the summit observation deck. The bow-shaped beach of Seonyudo Island, Mangjubong Peak, Jangjado Island and the islands dotting the blue West Sea spread out below you in a 360-degree panorama.

To visit the Gogunsan Islands by public transportation, take city bus 99 from downtown Gunsan (about every 30–40 minutes, about 70 minutes from downtown). It goes as far as Sinsido Island, Munyeodo Island, Seonyudo Island and Jangjado Island. On Seonyudo Island and Jangjado Island, bus 99-1, a 2-story bus, runs a loop and carries travelers who are on foot.

If you drive, parking space on Daejangdo Island is tight. The smart move is to use the public parking lot at the entrance to Jangjado Island as a base and link Jangjado and Daejangbong Peak on foot. Finish a meal in the old downtown in the morning, then climb Daejangbong Peak as the afternoon light slants and stay through sunset. That route lets you enjoy both speeds of the Gogunsan Islands most fully.